Having escaped the attentions of the farmer or anyone else overnight, I was packed and on my way by 7:00 am, walking in the darkness on the Ridgeway as it detoured around the village of Ogbourne St George. The moon, now almost full, helped light my way (called the "Wolf Moon" at this time of year). An hour or so after I started it set in the west, a large ball tinged with pink slowly sliding below the far hills just as the sun was about to rise above the horizon to the east, preceded by bands of pink, pale blue and progressively darker blues higher up the clear sky.
Much of the day was on good, wide tracks. Ruts and hoof prints on the mud showed it also used by vehicles (at least in summer when they were permitted) and horses, although I have not encountered any riders. Progress was good with any ascents and descents relatively gradual. I diverted off the trail to visit the first of today's hill forts, Liddington Castle. Looking down, the large town of Swindon occupied much of the view. I became conscious that I had been hearing the sound of vehicles on the busy M4 motorway for some time. The Ridgeway joined a road, with some fast cars, to cross over the M4. As cars and lorries speed beneath me I contemplated how very much slower I was covering the ground.
My route climbed back up to the plateau and followed its edge, sometimes close by, sometimes at a distance for the rest of the day. When near the edge, looking down on the lowlands below, a large area of towns, villages and farmland could be seen, extending into the hazy distance. The next site of interest was Wayland Smithy, a Neolithic long barrow built in two phases between 3590 to 3400 years BC. A couple were placing their hands on the large standing stones that stood at one end, maybe hoping to feel some ancient vibrations. Surrounded by beech trees it was a pleasant place to sit down on a fallen tree trunk and eat a apple while planning where I would spend the night. I had expected to have another night wild camping but I had made good progress today and yesterday and it appeared I could reach a Bed & Breakfast. A lady at a place I telephoned was a little surprised I was walking the Ridgeway in January but agreed to offer me a bed.
Huffington Castle hill fort was the next stop. Beneath it there was another white horse cut in the hillside but as I was at the top of the hill it was not visible to me. Segsbury hill fort was my last of the day. I crossed it on my way down to the Bed & Breakfast I had booked in Letcombe Regis. Like all the villages in the area it was on the lower land a few kilometres north of the Ridgeway. It was a steep walk down which sadly I would have to re-climb tomorrow.
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