Sunday, January 16, 2022

Wessex Ridgeway: Some comments

Although the Wessex Ridgeway is not well known it is a substantial long distance walk over rounded hills and ridges, mainly farmland and with some good views.

Much of the route is on chalk downs, "downs" being the local name hills on this type of rock, typically covered with grass, farmed traditionally with sheep, and with dry valleys, as water sinks into the chalk rather than forming streams. However you could doubt this on the first part of the trail where rivers and streams are frequently encountered, fortunately all with bridges. Only after entering Wiltshire and on the latter half of the route is the landscape more typical of the downs. In good weather the higher ground associated with the chalk gives tremendous views over lower land to the west or north particularly as you walk around the boundary of the Salisbury Plains Military area. Most of the route is over farmland, mainly grass fields but with fodder and cereal crops also cultivated. Areas not farmed are woodland and tree plantations with a variety of species. Raising pheasants and then shooting them is typical of the area, and a popular activity among the country gentry.

Waymarks, of a green dragon, are common although you need an Ordnance Survey map or a GPS with the track loaded to navigate. The only guidebook is somewhat out of date. As I was walking in January at the ragged end (I hope) of the Coronavirus pandemic a number of places normally offering a bed for the night were closed. Consequently I wild camped two nights. At other times of the year I would expect that you could complete the route using Bed & Breakfast accommodation throughout. Being mainly farmland, the route is not well suited for wild camping. The inns I stayed at most nights were more expensive than I expected, possibly they would be better value with two sharing a room. Food served in these pubs was imaginative and included more varied dishes than just the "Pub Classics" (so not everything came with chips), however this was reflected in the prices. While there was a good selection of hand pulled beers, these now seem to be called "ales", not sure if this means that lager is called beer. Three towns are on the route, Lyme Regis, Warminster and Devizes (four if you walk to the end at Marlborough), and there are several villages. "Pretty" is how one might describe the villages with old thatched houses, buildings of stone or flint, duck ponds, old churches and pubs dating from the time of Thomas Hardy. Yet at the time when that author lived I suspect the villages did not look quite so neat and tidy. Not all villages had a shop, and a pub is likely the only source of refreshments, so some forward planning is needed. Many hill forts are on the route, partly because the Wessex Ridgeway seeks to follow the higher ground with the best views, these were also the ideal places to build a hill fort if you lived in the Iron Age.

January is not the best time to walk this route, although if you are lucky like me the sunny, frosty days are beautiful. Rain and cold should be expected, but need not be detrimental to enjoyment provided suitable warm clothes and water proofs are carried, indeed at times I was overheating when on the move. Mud is more of a nuisance, getting everywhere, dropping off onto clean, light carpets on entering spotless bed & breakfast accommodation. There may still be mud and rain in the springtime however you should also be blessed with an abundance of colourful wild flowers.

I completed the route from Lyme Regis to Avebury in nine days. Maybe not my most dramatic long distance trek but a walk through "England's green and pleasant lands".

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